Arlo Doorbell

[Captainbiggulp]

Our existing doorbell works on 24V DC.

1. I understand that Arlo is looking for an AC input. Does it have a bridge rectifier to covert the typical 24V AC to DC? If so, the bridge rectifier should pass the 24V DC just fine.

2. Is the push-button simply dry-contact? If this is true then my existing system should work just fine with the Arlo doorbell.

Thanks,

Jim

[jguerdat]

1) Are you sure it's a DC voltage? That would be unusual at least in the US. The typical system simply uses a step-down transformer from 120v to 16-24v. Whether the doorbell innards would work with a DC voltage is unknown - you'd be the first to test.

2) It's highly unlikely that the doorbell button is that simple. It is more like a signal switch to electronics to then act upon that press, including closing the circuit to the chime.

[Captainbiggulp]

Yep, I built my doorbell using an antique annunciator bell that I removed from a railroad control machine that was being retired and it is most certainly DC. My guess is that the circuitry inside the Arlo leverages DC and since most doorbell circuits are using AC, I'm betting that there is a bridge rectifier in Arlo. I haven't installed it yet so perhaps I can open it up and examine the PC board. I didn't really think too hard about the switch before I posted but I should be able to figure out if it is a dry contact using a meter (I would think that it would be to make it compatible with most existing doorbell installations but I could be wrong).

Thanks for the reply,

Jim

[jguerdat]

Having opened a dead doorbell myself, I can tell you you will easily void your warranty by opening it up to check things out. I would try it first.

[jsaus63304]

Maybe the safest bet would be to get the new non-hard wired video doorbell.