How to hardwire power using the USB port.

[Sin_City]

Disclaimer:

-Do it at your own risk. I do not take any responsiblity for your actions.

-I do not take credit for discovering the USB port. I heard it for the first time from jimmyzshack (thank you) from another post.

-This will void your warranty.

-Be prepared to lose a camera (to me the work is absolutely safe).

-Someone (TomMac) has said it may burn the port out.

-I wouldn't use it outdoors unless you silicone the opening for the USB cord.

I need to convert 4 cameras for interior use. All other maker security cams run on a 5V USB type charger. Including ones that pan, zoom, tilt so I'm chancing that this will work. I am currently using the dice-sized iPhone charger. I wonder if it is better to use the larger iPad charger or something that outputs 10w 2.1 amps?  I have no electrical background, but I am guessing that the unit uses 4 batteries for power reserve capacity and there is some voltage regulator to bring it down to 5v. Just a guess. The IR also work with this mod.

Separate the battery cover by gently prying it off from one side. The slide lock may fly out. I didn't bother replacing it since the lock is redundant and I'm not using batteries.

Grind the plastic lid

Grind the metal battery door backing plate so the USB cable will fit.

Test fit theUSB cord

Mark the approximate locations to grind an opening (I will make a template for subsequent cameras to speed up process).

Drill pilot hole

Grind opening and check for fitment of USB cable.

Enjoy (temporary location-will run wires behind drwall).

Good luck!

[Andmatts]

Converter will deliver it as I adjusted it and has no way to increase the voltge if necessary.

I have measured the power consumption of the camera and got it to max 110 mA
However, I have not done any measurements when the camera is in night mode and IR diodes is running.

Two of my cameras I drive this dc-dc converter and can really recomend it.
One camera is supplied with a 12 volt AC to DC converter and then the small DC-DC converter.

The second camera is some distance from the house so where do I use my old motorcycle battery (11Ah) as a voltage source and a DC-DC converter.

For motorcycle batterit I have ordered a solar cell and a control card.

What I have not solved yet is some type of monitoring of the battery when I buried it in the garden and do not know how much my upcoming solar cell will recharge.

I buy most of Ebay, it is cheap but slow delivery time is long.
Occasionally have time to change before you got the stuff.

Spoiler

Here is a link to what I bought.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201393451337?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/381533858526?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=650637170353&ssPageName=STRK...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201054874929?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

/Anders

[TomMac]

For motorcycle battery I have ordered a solar cell and a control card.

What I have not solved yet is some type of monitoring of the battery when I buried it in the garden and do not know how much my upcoming solar cell will recharge.

Most solar cells put out less than half of their rated output ( rated output calc'ed at max sun ).... and an 11 ahr battery is a pretty big sump.

I usu rated them at 1/3 the output for a normal day in my calc's.

In my tests, I also didn't try to max charge the battery , but was shooting for a 'float voltage'.  

To charge, your looking around 14.5v, down side is over charging can cause gassing off / heat which isn't good long term.

In a float charge  , about 13.6 - 13.8 v the battery is below full charge but at a maintenance level that doesn't gas off... so long term the battery is in a better state ( esp since the unit draws so little of the total cell capacity ) .

Didn't worry about monitoring cell , just checked now and then with a voltmeter to verify voltage stayed at set level.

I have not done any measurements when the camera is in night mode and IR diodes is running.

Obv, you see an increase prob in the area of 50-100 ma.... like I stated  don't think it will hit 250ma at max usage.

[uvamarkg]

Here's a thought - Has anyone tried using the recently released solar panel micro-usb adapter that Ring release (available here, https://ring.com/stickupcam#solarpanel ) with the Arlo cameras? I prefer the Arlo cameras to Ring's, but really don't want to have to change batteries all the time. Anyone think this could work? 

[JGMcG]

Have you tried to modify a hard-wire-powered wi-fi camera so that it is compatible with the Arlo base station?

There are plenty of wi-fi cameras that are MUCH less expensive than the Arlo. Would it be possible to "swap brains" so that the alien camera thinks that it's an Arlo?

I don't know why Netgear is so reluctant to offer a compatible ac-powered camera that is compatible with the Arlo.

Thank you for sharing your efforts to transform your Arlo to USB power! 

[Tulley]

If it is of interest to anyone i modded one of my cameras 4 months back. Not via USB but using a 9v 1.5A charger crocoldile clipped to 2 battery terminals. The charger +&- was split inside the camera after a grommet so all tidy and waterproof. Not a single issue so far. This camera gets all the road traffic setting it off so was going through batteries quickly. Pics available if anyone is interested.

[iapodaca73]

JGMcG,

I deal with high end cameras and systems daily with the company I work for, and there are a ton of wireless devices out there that fit specific needs and wants.  I have played with the idea of cracking open one of these devices to see what and how I could do a mod like this with an older Axis 211 camera.  But then after seeing systems like Lorex where they already have a system that just needs power and its all wireless made me think I would have been wasting my time.

I think that in time Netgear is going to see that there is a need for a power adapter and they will fill that void, if not we will continue to make mods like the ones we have up to this point, or purchase a different system. I would love to see Netgear really focus on Motion Detection, if they could get that down I think they would have a really solid system.  Not only would it help improve false positives but also make the batteries actually last 4 months.

If I get time or if I feel that I have nothing much more to do I might try looking into modding up my Axis 211, with the Arlo brains, Ill keep you posted if I take on that challenge.

Thanks

Isaac

[TomMac]

---

uvamarkg wrote:

Here's a thought - Has anyone tried using the recently released solar panel micro-usb adapter that Ring release (available here, https://ring.com/stickupcam#solarpanel ) with the Arlo cameras? I prefer the Arlo cameras to Ring's, but really don't want to have to change batteries all the time. Anyone think this could work? 

---

Don't think anyone has tried it yet... also the solar panel I posted with battery is cheaper.... and cam runs great on a 6v gell cell.  

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Moultrie-6V-Deluxe-Solar-Panel/16386214

Add to this there have been some problems using the usb port to power the Arlo cams as the cam runs on higher voltage than the usb supply plus a drilling mode to get to the port thru the shell.

An easier mod it to tack solder right to the spring terminals ( jumping to both sets ) and than using a ribbon cable to exit the shell.. ( or putting in a coaxial pig tail if more permanent ).. the ribbon cable allows the shell to close and you can revert back if needed.

[Jmatheney32]

That was a well made tutorial much appreciated! I think I going to copy this method but adding a very small channel with dremel or soldering iron for the wire to pass and still be able to shut the door. Being that I reside in Ohio its a must for weather

[wwlgb]

Hi folks,

I have recently bought the Arlo System and got frustrated by empty batteries really soon. So I tried hardwiring via USB. Seemed to work perfectly, but after a few minutes being connected via USB the camera doesn't dectect any motion nor does it record any video. It works for once and livestreaming is also ok.

Any idea on this?

[jguerdat]

Pro or original? Makes a big difference.

[wwlgb]

thank you for your quick reply - should have specified that in my first post, it's the arlo original.

so have tried several other power adapter but the problem stays the same - arlo only recognizes the first movement after connecting it to power and then nothing. live video is always available though.

[jguerdat]

While apparently some folks have successfully used the USB port on the original wireless cameras, it seems to be a crap shoot. It's likely due to the USB-supplied 5VDC vs. the batteries providing 6.4-ishVDC (they're in series-parallel, not all in series).  The low voltage may be anough to kinda-sorta work but not enough to provide streaming.

And Netgear specifically disavows the use of the USB port for powering the camera.

[Gaorenst]

I was able to power the Arlo HD Camera successfully using the USB cord and usb power adapter that comes with the Arlo Pro Camera. Motion detection, live viewing all work. Arlo is selling an outdoor power cord for the Pro camera for $20
Ill bet that would do yhe trick as well.

[DogMonster]

---

TomMac wrote:

---

uvamarkg wrote:

Here's a thought - Has anyone tried using the recently released solar panel micro-usb adapter that Ring release (available here, https://ring.com/stickupcam#solarpanel ) with the Arlo cameras? I prefer the Arlo cameras to Ring's, but really don't want to have to change batteries all the time. Anyone think this could work? 

---

Don't think anyone has tried it yet... also the solar panel I posted with battery is cheaper.... and cam runs great on a 6v gell cell.  

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Moultrie-6V-Deluxe-Solar-Panel/16386214

Add to this there have been some problems using the usb port to power the Arlo cams as the cam runs on higher voltage than the usb supply plus a drilling mode to get to the port thru the shell.

An easier mod it to tack solder right to the spring terminals ( jumping to both sets ) and than using a ribbon cable to exit the shell.. ( or putting in a coaxial pig tail if more permanent ).. the ribbon cable allows the shell to close and you can revert back if needed.

---

Does the ribbon cable method  produce a weatherproof seal on the door? I'm also interested in the Moultrie solar panel and I'm confused that it's a 6V panel and everything I've been reading says the cameras need 9V  power supply ideally. Why iwould the 6V panel work? What's a gell cell? Thank you.

[hkbob]

Considering I've experienced a 20% failure rate in cameras at 2 years...I'm more willing to try and power a faulty camera this way than spend money on another one.

[thedogmonster]

Don't use the USB port in the camera, it needs to be hardwired to the four battery terminals inside the camera. There are a number of threads detailing the steps.

One camera is powered by a 6V phone charger the other one by a Moultrie 6V solar panel and 6V electric fence battery. Both work flawlessly.

[Eugster]

I thought I would put a lot of people out of their misery by showing what I've been looking for for months.

It's a power adapter wth dummy batteries for the Arlo camera:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B077KKNMVR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It comes with a 6V 1A adapter and works perfectly.

[Stangmatt66]

Your Lanmu kit is perfect! Can you ship to the US?

[Eugster]

I bought it on Amazon - you'll need to contact the seller or search for it on the US Amazon site

[molligdj]

Relative to having remote access to arlo camera system: I had the same need and have figured this out ! At least it works for me on 3 arlo base stations with up to 12 cameras and they have been running for over a year.

So my fix is simply to power cycle the units and everything works. I do not remotely power cycle the units but rather have the modem and arlo base station on a digital timer. So the timer I have will let me have 4 programmable times to set as I wish. My strategy is the following :

Step 1 : power down the base station (timer 1)
Step 2: power down the modem (timer 2) about one minute later
Step 3: power up the modem ( timer 2) wait 5 minutes - this is necessary for the cable service to reboot
Step 4: power up the arlo base (timer 1)

After this sequence the arlo base and cameras are all reset. It works every time. I’ve tested this by simulating power outages and it is failsafe. The key here is you have to put timers on both devices and make sure the modem powers off after the arlo and the modem powers on before the arlo starts again. Other wise the network gets hung.

So I have my systems power cycle at 7:00 am and 7:00 pm . That way if there is a power outage and things get screwed up I am out of service for only 12 hrs. That seems like a long time but it beats having to drive 1500 miles to fix.

I hope that helps you guys.