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My cameras in high traffic areas tend to use batteries up faster than the others. Therefore, I plan to build an adapter that will fit directly into the battery compartment and be powered by an AC adapter. Of course, for this camera I will have to run power to its location, not too difficult.
Construction of a prototype will be made out of 123 dummy batteries (hollow) and then later via 3d printer. I already have the 123 dummies, making this should be easy (he said carefully )
I am already aware that the camera is a 6V system and not 12V.
Engineering Question: I would like to find out what the camera draws/requires in amps. Does anyone have knowledge of this?
This will allow me to source a 6V AC adapter with the correct amperage output.
I am willing to be a test case for this and if it's successful, will gladly post all the steps here in the community as a DIY project.
Thanks very much.
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HI
I am not sure of the current draw, but can only summise it is quite high given these cameras use high power lithium cells - and they only seem to last 2 weeks in my installation (Deptite very modest settings to preserve battery life)
When you have completed your project pleae let me know i would be very interested in some form of AC adapter. In my opinion using 100% battery power was woefully ambitious for such a wireless product (battery life was my biggest fear when investing in this system)
Steve
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Will do Steve. I am pretty handy but not enough experience playing about with amps and just don't want to fry a $150 camera! Stepping slowly in this.
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Yes i hear you,i was thinking about busting one of mine open...
You also need to measure the draw when the wireless transmitter is "transmitting" or in streaming mode (i.e the unit is not sleeping - which is assume it does) - and also with the IR leds ON, which I can imagine are quite a current draw.
Ideal solution (for external cameras like mine) would be a tiny solar cell you can locate near the camera which can power / charge the camera batteries during the day, and hold enough change to run them when needed at night... interesting project...
Steve
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GREAT idea Steve about testing the draw under different conditions, will aboslutely look into that.
Thanks!
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I'd think using the dummy batteries to build an external battery pack would make it easy to measure current in the various states. Then you could use that info for the power supply. I, too, would be interested in the design to make me own power supplies. I'd prolly just run a long output wire rather than putting the supply next to the camera.
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Thanks, yes am going to first get the current measured under different conditions and then I should be ready to go.
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I'm also interested in this as well.
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Why not take a camera apart and power directly to the battery leads on the board?
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might save you some trouble.
power the camera with a USB cable, though you lose weatherproofing so it's only suitable for indoor use. If you open up the battery compartment there's a little white rubber piece near the back of the lid behind where the batteries go. Pry that out with a pocket knife and you'll find a mini-USB socket, which you can use to power the camera.
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Hi there!
The key point that made me decide to buy the Arlo system was that cameras are absolutely wirefree. Some cameras claim to be wire free... but just for data.
Bear in mind that if someone wants to break into your home, the first thing that they will do is to cut your electricity supply. That's why I have an UPS protecting the arlo hub and my internet router.
Think it twice: AC adaptartor for your cameras implies a security risk.
(By the way, if you are using dead batteries, they can also "explode" if you are using them as a part of your circuit)
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Wow, this really works! I wonder if the batteries will kick in if power from the usb is cut???
Now this assuming the unit will not draw power from both sources at the same time, and I'm too afraid to experiment and destroy my unit Lol
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jimmyzshack about powering the camera with a USB cable: This is partly true, however, doing so seems to turn the camera into a pure streaming device. Powered via the USB socket, you not only loose weatherproofing, it appears you also loose motion detection, alert mails and app push-messages. You can still log into the Arlo webpage to watch live streaming from the camera, though.
So me too is very interested in camCHLO's AC Adapter Construction initiative.
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I have one of my cameras powered by the USB. You do loose weatherproofing but mine is indoors. A Negear mod recommended against it. I do not lose motion detection. I don't recall losing push notifications or not but but it does record when motion detection is on.
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Thanks to Sin_City for the feedback. This means I have to do some more testing on my cameras. I purchased a set of three plus base station a week ago, I have tested this on just one of the cameras, but what happens is this: I used a usb power supply for a mobile phone. Once the camera had synced, I tested movement, and I received both an email alert and a notification to my app. I entered Arlo.netgear.com and confirmed that the recording had been received and I could replay it. So far so good. But I left the camera connected to the usb power plug and tested for movement again, and nothing more happened - no more alerts or notifications. I disconnected the usb plug, and reconnected after a few seconds, the camera synced, I tested for movement, and I received alert and notification. Once. Further testing gave no more alerts or recordings to the website. Exactly the same pattern as the first time I powered via usb. I made the whole test 5-6 more times, the same happened each time; the first movement was handled, then no more.
I will now try the same with my other two cameras.
I'm sure there are other forum members that have experience with using usb powered Arlo cameras, please share it with us.
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I still don't recommend usign the usb port for powering the camera... don't think the port was designed as such for this.
Remember the usb port is 5V, the batteries supply from OEM 6.4v to rechargeable 7.4v... as the camera draws power for it's needs if you lower the voltage the current must increase ( other being the same). So IMO, you pushing more current thru the port than it may have been designed to handle.
I think that anyone thinking of doing this should be more along the lines of feeding at battery terminals sort of like a dummy battery pack.
Morse is faster than texting!
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TerjeLan: Try using an iPad charger. Perhaps the 2.1 amps may make a difference. I started using it this way with an iPhone charger and switched to the iPad charger because of the higher output amperage. I just came home earlier today and can confirm that it still does give me the push notifications and email notices. I have had this camera plugged in to the iPad charger since I started this thread:
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