Easy to take camera apart and solder leads to power camera using AC adapter?

[Sincity]

Has anyone taken a camera apart? Is it easy? Since AC power is not an option, I'd like to convert one. Would a USB powersupply supply enough voltage/amperage?

[TomMac]

Prob going to be in the max of 250ma range at peak usage...

[Zubs]

Hi Guys - i am thinking of doing this mod to my 5 cameras.

To which battery terminals do you attach the alligator clips?

and is it correct that a 6V 2A adapter is the correct one to purchase? In most cases the cable run would be 1m, and in some cases max 2m.

And best to drill through battery door? or is there some way to drill through the back - to make the cable less visible/obvious?

[Tulley]

The cameras can run off 2 batteries placed in the front OR back two slots so as long as it is one of these pair it doesnts matter.

I have a test rig with a 6v 1.6a supply that works fine. These cameras really shouldnt be drawing much but so far I think 1.5a+ have been tried.

Drill point is up to you.  flat perfect surface would be best if you are using a grommet to seal the interface. But if you're using liquid sealant then as you say it may be nicer to put the cable further back

[buckorange]

 TomMac wrote:

Prob going to be in the max of 250ma range at peak usage...

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Well I finally got around to measuring the current flow on the wired Arlo camera. TomMac you pretty well hit the nail on the head. I used a clamp on DC amp meter. The highest I ever saw it get was 253ma and average of with the camera running was 187ma. I thought it might show some current flow on initial reset when first turning the power on but only got 078ma. I'm adding some pictures of how I wired the two cameras I converted. I finally used a different camera that gets the format size down to load on this site.

[dwl442]

What's the green wire connecting to? Is this to show full battery power?

[TomMac]

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dwl442 wrote:

What's the green wire connecting to? Is this to show full battery power?

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looks like green wire links the black to the second negitive terminal

[dwl442]

Looks like green to positive and heavy red wire to negative post, i just took mind down and compared units, Thanks

[TomMac]

if you look at the picture, sticker shows the + polarity is on the top inside,  other end  where wire is will be the opposite - 

[dwl442]

Okay Thanks TomMac,   To refresh my mind, i would need a 6Vdc 1.5-1.8A power supply? Does anyone make a dummy battery that you could soldier on leads instead of the spring leads in camera?

[Tulley]

I would go 9 or 12v @ 1.5a
Using 6v the camera shows 2 out of 3 battery bars. I read that a fresh battery charge improves things like motion detection lag so it may be worth an extra couple of volts to ensure these things are running at full blast.

[TomMac]

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dwl442 wrote:

Okay Thanks TomMac,   To refresh my mind, i would need a 6Vdc 1.5-1.8A power supply? Does anyone make a dummy battery that you could soldier on leads instead of the spring leads in camera?

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Yes... but as mentioned the new cells are 3.2 each or 6.4v total ( rechargeable come in at 4.2 / 8.4 total )

So the best may be in the middle.. (9v as long as not higher prob ok )

As to fake cells, wooden dowels and large thumb tacks at the end I've done in the past.

[alganon]

Morse is faster than texting!

Did you see them on Johnny Carson ?

VE2HTB

[TomMac]

yes... a long time ago.

It's what I keep telling my kids,... Also that I can send code without looking down at the screen ( use to drive with a key strapped on my leg - never take eyes off the road ).

Not the fastest by any means but can do a solid 30wpm..... to go faster, I'd prob have to 1) get better with head  2) write in script more or 3) learn to type 🙂

[benj79]

Joining the bandwagon.  No more batteries for me...

[cparrish60]

1500mAh is the amount of energy in the battery, not the current draw.  If the camera needed 1.5 amps, the battery would be dead in one hour.  You should measure the actual current draw and power it accordingly.

[TomMac]

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cparrish60 wrote:

1500mAh is the amount of energy in the battery, not the current draw.  If the camera needed 1.5 amps, the battery would be dead in one hour.  You should measure the actual current draw and power it accordingly.

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Max current draw is aprox 200ma peak without the IR illuminators...which may add another 100-150 ( untested )

A 1a / 9v supply should be fine....but just watch unregulated small wall warts as with no load they can be a number of volts higher.

The supply can be higher available current as the device will only draw what it needs ( but why bother cause bigger usu means more money )

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Tulley wrote:
I would go 9 or 12v @ 1.5a
Using 6v the camera shows 2 out of 3 battery bars. I read that a fresh battery charge improves things like motion detection lag so it may be worth an extra couple of volts to ensure these things are running at full blast.

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Good idea, but not 100%. I would avoid a 12v supply as it's a bit higher than used and we've seen probs with to high voltages ( li-ion max out at 8.4v ).

I would max at 9v.

The low battery bars show when some use 6v are ( from what I seen ) due to the small amount of circuit that links the two sets / battery pads ( internal ).  Another user found if just using one set of pads tho the camera worked, the battery gauge was off... He add jumpers to the second set and all was fine

So I would go with connection to both sets of terminal from the common DC source

Other thing not mention is power ( voltage ) loss with DC over small gauge wires run for for length  ( short run no problem, but if running 20ft or so you may see this )

[benj79]

I have now done this modification to two of my cameras very successfully. I used a jumper to connect two of the terminals together as per previous post (otherwise the camera detects only two batteries present and reports max 50% battery power). I have both of my cameras running with 9v dc transformers. I tried with 6 and 7 volts but they would report 75% or 50% battery power. The problem was worse with the camera connected to the long cable run which makes sense. My multimeter told me that the voltage drop over the length was minimal (maybe 0.25v?) but at 9v both now report full battery power. Given that these cameras are in the busiest areas (20/30+ recordings a day) the costs saving re batteries is very real. It seems odd to me that the cameras don't come with a dc jack as standard allowing as an option the use of mains power.

Either way, I am now v happy with my Arlos. Because I am no longer worried about battery life I record for 90s on a high sensitivity and the worst outcome I get is too many recordings, but not dead batteries.

[TomMac]

My multimeter told me that the voltage drop over the length was minimal (maybe 0.25v?)

may have been low due to no load at time of testing

[benj79]

yes probably exactly that. Either way, all working now. Very glad I found this thread.

[Extrastarka]

My conversion:

1 pc 9V 1A Power Adapter  4 dollars

2 pcs neodynium magnets with counter sunked holes (dont want to solder the cables to the camera) 3 dollars

1 pc Waterproof 5.5mmx2.5mm DC Power Supply Female Jack Socket Panel Mount Connector 2 dollars

cables are almost free and ask your neighbour to solder the magnet and the cable end and the socket.

Just to search on the names and you will find it.

[dwl442]

Can you post a pic of your mod to camera, like to see how magnets are attached . Thanks

[frankmuccino]

Do you have any pictures of where I have to solder the wires.   

Thank you 

[buckorange]

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frankmuccino wrote:

Do you have any pictures of where I have to solder the wires.   

Thank you 

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There were pictures posted on page three of this thread, if they help you any. I finally converted my other two cameras. All four cameras running, no batteries.

[dwl442]

[Sin_City]

Nice job!