Doorbell will connect to WiFi, then go off line after a few minutes

[R5Ryder]

Been having issues with this doorbell where it will connect to WiFi, then go off line after a few minutes, then re-connect in a couple of hours.  I have other Arlo cameras on the same WiFi, connected to the same node, and only the doorbell has an issue.  Anyway, I just tried to use the "chat" feature, and selected "doorbell" as my product, and NONE OF THE PRODUCT OPTIONS WERE ACTUALLY DOORBELLS!  Since I couldn't select my product, it disconnected me.  I tried three times, and despite selecting "doorbells", I was unable to actually select a model number that corresponded to a doorbell.

I've had multiple support cases, sent over logs, and have NEVER heard anything back specific to what's in the logs.  What is the point of requesting logs if they're not read?  I have logs from my router too, which show that the doorbell disconnects itself (while the other devices are online and using data), but the Arlo people never actually looked at my logs.  Now their chat bot won't even allow you to proceed because of bugs.

Arlo folks - if you're reading this, I don't say this lightly.  I'm in support myself, and I know what it's like to be crapped on by customers.  But the support you provide is absolutely unacceptable, and while your individual people are nice and knowledgeable, the fact that nobody could even look at the logs that they requested is beyond aggravating, and the fact that now your bot doesn't even allow you to proceed is even worse.

I have new logs.  I just want someone to take a look and tell me what the error is so that if it's on my end I can take care of it.  That's all.

[JamesC]

R5Ryder,

When you say the doorbell will go offline and reconnect after a couple hours, what are you seeing that is indicating that? Do you see an offline error message in the mobile app?

Does the issue repeat itself consistently or is this an intermittent issue?

JamesC

[R5Ryder]

Hi.  In the app, it'll show as "offline", and it won't call me if someone rings the bell.  Sometimes I think it's "asleep", because I'll press the button and it won't even trigger the chime, then I'll press it again and it'll magically come online for a minute, then disconnect again.  It's consistent.  I can tell by the recordings that it drops for hours at a time, then magically reconnects, then drops again.  Sometimes it's online for a minute, sometimes for seconds, or sometimes for hours.  Just yesterday, I tried removing the doorbell from the app, and re-adding it from scratch.  It's recognized and set up perfectly, then goes right offline.  My Essential Spotlight Camera that's a few feet away stays connected 24/7, so it's certainly not a network issue.  It's also not a power issue.

I've emailed myself the system logs several times and provided them to support as part of prior cases, but they simply will not actually tell me what the logs say so that I can take whatever action I need.  I really just want someone to tell me what the logs say.   I tried to attach the logs to this post, but of course, the Arlo forums don't accept files with an Arlo extension.

[JamesC]

R5Ryder,

How have you ruled out that it's not a power issue? Have you tested the transformer voltage: https://kb.arlo.com/000062324/How-do-I-measure-the-voltage-of-my-doorbell-transformer

JamesC

[R5Ryder]

Hi.  The transformer model is CT-380G, which is a 16 Volt Transformer (I have a photo if necessary.)  In addition to the transformer rating, I don't think it's power because it has worked for up to a month at a time in between going through these periods where it's disconnected.  In the past, I'd cut the power off by toggling the power on the white adapter that connects to the chime box and that would temporarily resolve it (for some reason that would work better than cutting the breaker) however that's not fixing it this time.  I'm willing to get a multimeter to test it, but that's not something that can happen quickly (and the transformer literally says 16 volts.)

I have to ask again, if there are system logs that may show some reason for the disconnect, why will nobody read them?  Support requested them numerous times back in October and never actually read them.  If the logs say that it's losing power, then I'd be happy to have the transformer replaced or take whatever other action is necessary.

[JamesC]

R5Ryder,

I've not gone through your support ticket, but I can request a log analysis. The logs will likely only show that the doorbell has dropped offline, much like you see from your end on the mobile client. The doorbell has an internal battery that may simply be discharging at a very slow rate due to lack of power, once depleted, the doorbell drops offline until the battery charges enough to come back online, only to start that cycle again. It may have taken some time for you to see this after initial installation due to the battery being close to full charge out of the box.

With 16 volts being the absolute minimum, it seems likely that this is why you're experiencing the issue as often times the actual voltage rating at the doorbell is less.  If you're able to test with a multimeter, that's a good place to start. I will follow up on your ticket and request some log analysis to see if there is anything else impacting your system.

JamesC

[R5Ryder]

I did another full reset and reconnect yesterday, and it stayed on until this morning.  It was online, recording as it should, then simply dropped off while I was outside (it records pretty frequently since it's a busy city street, so when it stops recording, that's a pretty good indicator of the time it went offline, give or take 10 minutes.

I would hope the logs might say something that would indicate the reason - like if "power low, disconnecting" or something like that.  Guess not.

Couple of questions:

1.  If you're correct and the internal battery is being drained and recharged (which I'm skeptical of because it has in the past runs for months on end), can that battery be changed?  I think changing the battery every year wouldn't be the worst thing in the world.

2.  If you're correct about the voltage, first - Arlo should just say that a 16v transformer isn't good enough, and second - is the transformer that goes to the doorbell totally separate from the one in the chime box?  My chime box says 16v, and I haven't yet found any replacements that are 24v, however replacing the transformer that's next to my fuse box would be very easy, and I'm totally willing to do that as long as it doesn't cause my chime box to explode.  I know the type of advice you're allowed to give is limited for liability reasons, but I haven't been able to find an answer online on if I can simply replace the one transformer that's on the fuse box and be good.

[R5Ryder]

I'm attaching a photo of my chime box where it shows that it should be connected to a 16v transformer.  In searching online, I don't see chimes that connect to 24 volts, so I'm not sure if it's safe to upgrade the transformer to 24v without blowing up my chime box.  If it's fine to do then I can do it within the next several days, but there's not a ton of info out there on it.

Also - I read log files all day for my job (I'm also in support and get yelled at by customers, so I can relate a little bit to what goes on here) so if someone could tell me what I need to actually view the log file, I could possibly decipher it myself.  I've tried the basic options and haven't yet found anything that can decode it into English.  Can you share the format or suggest a logviewer application?

[StephenB]

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@R5Ryder wrote:

If you're correct and the internal battery is being drained and recharged (which I'm skeptical of because it has in the past runs for months on end), can that battery be changed?  I think changing the battery every year wouldn't be the worst thing in the world.

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The internal battery is quite small, and the doorbell doesn't normally run on it.  It can keep it going over a short power outage, but that's it.  It is not user replaceable.

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@R5Ryder wrote:

If you're correct about the voltage, first - Arlo should just say that a 16v transformer isn't good enough, and second - is the transformer that goes to the doorbell totally separate from the one in the chime box?  My chime box says 16v, and I haven't yet found any replacements that are 24v, however replacing the transformer that's next to my fuse box would be very easy, and I'm totally willing to do that as long as it doesn't cause my chime box to explode. 

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FWIW, my chime is also rated at 16v, and I use a 24 volt transformer with no problem.  Your mileage might vary of course.  A mechanical chime (which I have) is only powered briefly when the doorbell is pressed.

As far as specs go, this does depend on the wiring.  The resistance in the wiring will result in lower voltage being delivered to the doorbell.  So while 16v is what the doorbell needs, it might not be getting that.

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@R5Ryder wrote:

is the transformer that goes to the doorbell totally separate from the one in the chime box? 

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Normally there is just one transformer (which can be shared by multiple chimes and/or multiple doorbells).

It is possible to deploy a separate one for the doorbell - using a relay to trip the existing chime.  But that is unusual (and not something Arlo describes).

[R5Ryder]

I confirmed that there's only one transformer that runs to the doorbell as well as chimebox.  I'll do the multimeter test and upgrade the transformer if necessary and if the chime box blows up then so be it.  I can add the arlo chime, but that would require investing more $ in a product that's reliability I'm already skeptical of.

Still don't understand why it needs to "wake up".  For example, after it dropped offline this morning, pressing the button did absolutely nothing - didn't ring the chime, nothing.  Pressing it again did the same thing.  Then a third press got it to ring the chime and light up (though it's still not connected to the WiFi), but at least it rang the chime.  Then, a few minutes later, it went "back to sleep" again.  This is a common occurrence when it's offline.   I still also don't get why it would be fine and last for a month or so after the last bout with this, and then all of a sudden go back to this behavior.

Would the logs show "power low" or anything like that?  I'd really like to be able to see the logs or have them analyzed before I invest more time/money.

I'd also like to know what the little white box that attaches to the chime is for.  I read in a KB article that it is some kind of "bypass", but I've noticed that cycling it off for 10 mins or so and then back on again does temporarily get the doorbell to re-connect and act fine (until it drops.)

EDIT: I really do appreciate your replies here.  This experience has been better than my phone and chat experiences (and like I mentioned in my first post, the chat feature in the app no longer even allows you to choose the AVD1001 doorbell (or AVD2001) despite selecting that the problem is with a "doorbell or camera".

[R5Ryder]

Update - I "woke it up" again, and it hopped back online and is recording videos again (though I don't expect this to last).  However, now it doesn't ring the chime at all!  I confirmed in settings that it's not on "silent" mode or anything like that, but (for the moment) I can see the live feed and it's recording, but absolutely no chime anymore.  So back to the power thing - it has enough power to record and stream video, but not to trigger the chime?  FWIW, it's just a typical mechanical chime.

This is brand new behavior - it's never been "online" but not ringing the chime (and it's not doing the phone call thing either.  It's like the button is "dead".)

[StephenB]

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@R5Ryder wrote:

I'd also like to know what the little white box that attaches to the chime is for.  I read in a KB article that it is some kind of "bypass", but I've noticed that cycling it off for 10 mins or so and then back on again does temporarily get the doorbell to re-connect and act fine (until it drops.)

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A traditional doorbell is a simple switch.  When pressed, power flows

1. from the transformer
2. through the doorbell
3. on through the chime
4. back to the transformer return

completing the circuit, so the chime will ring.

When the doorbell isn't pressed, no power reaches the chime.

The video doorbell draws power all the time.  As a result, some power has to be flowing through the chime all the time (in order to complete the circuit for the doorbell).  Chimes generally aren't designed for this.

The power kit is designed to divert power around the chime when the doorbell isn't being pressed (when the switch in the normal "O" position). This completes the circuit for the doorbell.  But as far as the chime is concerned, the video doorbell+power kit acts just like a traditional doorbell - powering the chime only when the doorbell is pressed.  If you don't install the kit, many chimes will ring continuously (or spontaneously from time to time).  Also, there is potentially a safety issue, since the chime almost certainly wasn't designed to receive continuous power.

The bypass mode ("X") diverts power all the time, so it never runs through the chime. In that mode, the chime will always be silent.  One thing to check with your new symptoms is whether you accidently left the kit in this mode.

[R5Ryder]

That's very helpful!  Thanks for that explanation.  I totally misunderstood the function of the power kit.  It's definitely in the "o" position - maybe the problem is with the power kit and not the doorbell / transformer?  It's like the doorbell is stuck in "silent" mode, since currently it's still online, but neither activating the chime nor calling me, which are the two features that 'silent mode' disables.  I toggled the power kit again and confirmed that the doorbell stayed online, but still has not regained it's ability to "chime" or call.

What's interesting is that toggling it off/on tends to make the doorbell reconnect (at least temporarily) when it's offline.  Based on that explanation, it wouldn't seem like toggling the power kit should have any affect on the actual doorbell, just the chime.  But at least in my case, it has at least some effect on the function of the bell.  Regardless, due to the potential risk to the chime box, I won't do that unless it's necessary.

[R5Ryder]

Welp.  I used the "restart" option in the app to restart the doorbell hoping that the chime would work, and it never came back online.

[R5Ryder]

I did the multimeter test and it came up 19.2.  I'm not sure why it would be higher than 16, but that's what it said.  Tested multiple times.

[JamesC]

R5Ryder,

I've sent you a private message to collect some more information for the dev team on this issue.

JamesC

[R5Ryder]

Thank you.  Sent logs.  FWIW, I tried the multimeter test again because I thought that the reading seemed too high, but got the same result, so I think the power issue is ruled out.

[R5Ryder]

Hi.  I just wanted to provide some information on something I observed this morning.

When I woke up, I opened the Arlo app.  The doorbell was offline.  I can tell by the video library that it was online up until sometime very close to when I opened the app - it may have even been online up until I actually opened the app.  The recording stop right around that time (since it's not continuously recording, I cannot pinpoint a precise time, but based on patterns, it is reasonable to assume that it went offline when the app was opened.)

I then went outside and pressed the doorbell.  Nothing - no chime, no anything.  Pressed it again - same.  Pressed it a third time, and voila - chime rang, and back online.  

It really seems like it goes to sleep, although the timing of when it does is very confusing.  I've ruled out both the network and power.  That leaves only one thing - the doorbell itself.  Since I'm out of warranty, there's no way I'm spending another dollar on this, so I'm really hoping that something new is found in logs that would help resolve it, otherwise I'm not sure what I'm going to do because I already have other Arlo cameras and don't want to switch to some other brand doorbell, but as far as I can tell, the issue is with the hardware.

[R5Ryder]

MAJOR UPDATE.

I got frustrated so I purchased a NEW AVD1001 doorbell from Home Depot.  Installed it, and SAME RESULTS.  I then changed out my WiFi router to a different model that I had on hand, set it up right on the other side of the wall from the doorbell, sup a NEW wireless 2.4 network, connected the new doorbell, and same result.  Therefore, it would seem that the doorbell itself isn't the issue, which frankly frustrates me even more!

I did the multimeter test again, and it read 19.4 today.  I'm still willing to upgrade the transformer, but since I'm getting 19.4 at the doorbell, that would seem unnecessary (and possibly dangerous if the transformer goes over it's voltage rating just like my current one is.

I've now tried 2.4 GHz WiFi networks running on both AX and AC standards, WPA2 and WPA3 security, different brands, etc.  Something is preventing this thing from staying connected.  Since I purchased a new one, I should be within the time frame to get more personal support, right?

[JamesC]

R5Ryder,

If you bought a new doorbell, it should come with a 90 day trial, this would allow support for that duration. At this point, it seems the transformer is the only thing left to swap. I suppose there could be an issue with the wiring or some other electrical related problem that is causing trouble but you may need to consult an electrician to investigate something like that further.

JamesC

[R5Ryder]

I will swap the transformer.  That seems easy enough to do.

I'd still like for the logs to be analyzed just in case there is something in there that can tell me for sure that there's a power drop out.  Even just now, while the (new) doorbell is "asleep", I wake it by pressing it a few times until it chimes, then it "wakes up", connects to wifi and records a short (meaining 2 seconds) video, alerts me, then goes back to sleep.

Since I've tested the transformer voltage numerous times, and held the probes on there for a while (so I should witness any kind of drop off), I'm still skeptical that's the reason.  I'm really hoping the logs can show something that points me into a more clear direction.

Question - is there ANY difference in the internet protocols or security used by the essential spotlight cameras and the video doorbell?  Since my cameras work fine, if they connect to wifi the exact same way, that would help me rule out the network (though I've now tried two routers, so while that can't rule out the network for sure, it kinda does point to something else.

[R5Ryder]

While waiting for my 24v transformer to get delivered, I played around with settings and changed the chime style from "traditional" (which is what it should be) to "digital".  I noticed that the "digital" setting works (though there's a slight buzz from the chime box when the doorbell button is pressed) and the doorbell has remained online since making this change (albeit it's only been 24hrs.)  It doesn't always make the phone call, which is annoying, but at least the chime is ringing.

Why would "digital" work?  Even the "seconds" option works (for example, "ding" 2-second pause "dong").

Also just checking if the logs have been reviewed.  I still plan to upgrade the transformer, though I've yet to find any indication that the current one is malfunctioning, other than there's nothing else besides the wiring that can be swapped out and ruled out.

Thanks.

[JamesC]

R5Ryder,

The log review is still pending. I'm glad to hear you may have found a solution. Please let me know if the behavior changes.

JamesC

[R5Ryder]

Can you explain to me what the “digital” vs “traditional” settings do and why both would work for a mechanical chime box? I’m just curious in case it helps me with future troubleshooting.

I’m not sure it’s solved yet - need to see it stay online for longer, but I’m encouraged.

[JamesC]

Digital vs Traditional(mechanical) defines the type of chime you have. I don't know the specific details behind what the toggle actually does depending on which Chime you're using, but, if you have a mechanical chime, the toggle should be set to Traditional. I'm not entirely sure why this isn't the case for you.

JamesC