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ReCAMERA OPERATION/TEMPERATURE BELOW -4 F, MOTION DETECTION THRU GLASS?, SEC LIGHT USE BASE STATION?

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Suprmark1
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Aspirant

Hello,

 

Maybe it is me, but this community board seems to be very hard to use.  I have left several messages (questions) with never an answer, and even if I did receive an answer I would not know where to look for it?  

Seeing as how  maybe I have a larger audience here, I can ask my questions here.  

I live  in Alaska and have five houses (NONE OF WHICH HAVE POWER OR INTERNET).  So, I have internet service going into the houses.  I also have POWER going into the houses.  

I still have no heat, and just am learning that the operating temperatures of these systems are dismal.  Minus 4 degrees F they just shut off?  Good God, rarely does it get above -4 in dead of winter.  So now I have to have heat. 

I bought five three camera systems, so I have to have all of the cameras inside the home, and looking  out through a window.  My plan is to have a small heater in a box plugged into an outlet.  I will have holes in the box to allow the cameras to look out the windows for the exterior locations I would want to see, and then the two other cameras would be focused on the front door and the back door.  The base unit would also be housed within the box.  Thus instead of spending $750.00 per  month on heating oil, I would be spending $75.00 on electricity.

However, I heard something does not work looking through glass, is it the night vision, is it motion?   

Besides not being able to purchase an extra PRO-2 battery (everybody is out--or cannot ship to Alaska), I also cannot find a stand alone siren or stand alone flood light, or stand alone glass breakage system.  And if I did, would those be sensitive to the cold temperatures?

And how  many things can I hook up to one base unit?  I have right now set up two systems on my phone, and it is already getting pretty busy (a lot of things on the Arlo App).

I am also looking into getting door and window sensors but cannot find them either, and cannot understand the Arlo Store support people.  But it seems to me that I will have to get the "Elite Monitoring Service".  

So I guess I have two main questions.  One is where am I going to find these stand alone systems  (AND----where am I going to find the answer to these questions).

Does anybody have better suggestions on how to set up my homes other than the way I am doing it?  I will be out of state the whole winter, and would like something watching my homes....I have all the homes on the market.  So I figured instead of heating the whole home, I would just heat a big box near an interior corner of the house near a window that I could catch both entrance doors and one shot of the outside.  

Oh, and one other questions, do ALL cameras have the ability to have motion detection?  How about night vision (or is that the one camera that has all of the red lights around the shutter?), and do all cameras have two way audio?  

 

I almost want to leave my email address here but know better than that.  My username is Suprmark1.  So, other than that, welcome everybody...I certainly want to thank those who answer me, because I am sort of  lost here.  LOL

 

Shows me what happens as soon as I retire, just like my wife told me, my IQ starts sliding down.  I told her something that I cannot repeat here, but I am sure most of you guys get it.  For you women it was "How nice you look today!"

 

Thank you  in advance,

Suprmark1

Model: VMC4030P | Arlo Pro 2 Wire-Free Camera
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StephenB
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Guru

@Suprmark1 wrote:

I would just heat a big box near an interior corner of the house near a window that I could catch both entrance doors and one shot of the outside.  

 

However, I heard something does not work looking through glass, is it the night vision, is it motion?   

 


Given the temperature range, I think an enclosure like this would make sense.  The puzzle is motion detection - the PIR sensors require infrared to reach the sensors, and they don't work through glass.  I have read that IR will go through polypropylene - and I think you can find transparent polypropylene.  But I've never tried this.

 

If the cameras are going to end up protected from weather, always powered, and in a heated enclosure, then you might want to consider Arlo Q cameras.  They use pixel-based motion detection, so the PIR issue doesn't apply to them - they will work behind glass.  They also don't need a base station.  You would need to find a way to return the cameras you've already purchased. 

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

 I also cannot find a stand alone siren or stand alone flood light, or stand alone glass breakage system.  And if I did, would those be sensitive to the cold temperatures?

 

I am also looking into getting door and window sensors but cannot find them either, and cannot understand the Arlo Store support people.

Arlo has announced some of these things, but they aren't available yet.  There is a stand-alone flood light: https://www.arlo.com/en-us/products/arlo-light/default.aspx.  It's temperature range is bigger than the cameras, but is still limited to -14F.  The only Sirens are built into the base station (or in some cases, the camera).  The ones in the camera are pretty quiet.

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

 

Oh, and one other questions, do ALL cameras have the ability to have motion detection?  How about night vision (or is that the one camera that has all of the red lights around the shutter?), and do all cameras have two way audio?  

 


All the cameras do motion detection and night vision.

 

The original WireFree model doesn't do audio at all.  Some models (particularly the Pro2) are very quiet when used with Android phones (which I think is cured if you use a handset).  Of course the audio won't be great if the cameras are in an enclosure.

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

 

Does anybody have better suggestions on how to set up my homes other than the way I am doing it? 


One aspect is that occasionally the cameras can go off line.  One way to work around that is to use a timer of some kind to disconnect/reconnect power every now and then (once a day?)  Another is to make sure someone local has access to the system and can restart it for you if needed.

 

You'd need power and internet with pretty much any system.  The bad thing here is that you need to do quite a bit to overcome the temperature limitations.  And after that, there are features you hoped for (glass breakage detection, etc) that Arlo doesn't offer yet.  

 

The key advantage of most Arlo cameras (and the security light) is the fact that they are wireless and battery powered - which is a feature that isn't realized for you by the time you are done with your heated/powered enclosure.  There are some powered outdoor IP cameras out there that are spec'd to run at -22F - though that might not be good enough for your location either.   There are outdoor analog cameras that are spec'd down to -40F (though they would require more equipment inside to digitize and analyze the video.  So there might be some alternatives out there that won't require you to do all this extra work.

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michaelkenward
Sensei Sensei
Sensei

@Suprmark1 wrote:

Hello,

 

Maybe it is me, but this community board seems to be very hard to use.  I have left several messages (questions) with never an answer, and even if I did receive an answer I would not know where to look for it?  

 

You can set it up to email you whenever a new messages arrives in discussions that you follow.

 

Track down "Notification settings" under "Subscriptions & Notifications" in "My settings".

 

You can also subscribe to RSS feeds.

 


Just another user
Arlo hardware: Q Plus, Pro 2 (X2), Pro 3 (X3), Pro 3 Floodlight, Security Light (X2), Ultra (X2), Doorbell, Chime
StephenB
Guru Guru
Guru

@Suprmark1 wrote:

I would just heat a big box near an interior corner of the house near a window that I could catch both entrance doors and one shot of the outside.  

 

However, I heard something does not work looking through glass, is it the night vision, is it motion?   

 


Given the temperature range, I think an enclosure like this would make sense.  The puzzle is motion detection - the PIR sensors require infrared to reach the sensors, and they don't work through glass.  I have read that IR will go through polypropylene - and I think you can find transparent polypropylene.  But I've never tried this.

 

If the cameras are going to end up protected from weather, always powered, and in a heated enclosure, then you might want to consider Arlo Q cameras.  They use pixel-based motion detection, so the PIR issue doesn't apply to them - they will work behind glass.  They also don't need a base station.  You would need to find a way to return the cameras you've already purchased. 

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

 I also cannot find a stand alone siren or stand alone flood light, or stand alone glass breakage system.  And if I did, would those be sensitive to the cold temperatures?

 

I am also looking into getting door and window sensors but cannot find them either, and cannot understand the Arlo Store support people.

Arlo has announced some of these things, but they aren't available yet.  There is a stand-alone flood light: https://www.arlo.com/en-us/products/arlo-light/default.aspx.  It's temperature range is bigger than the cameras, but is still limited to -14F.  The only Sirens are built into the base station (or in some cases, the camera).  The ones in the camera are pretty quiet.

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

 

Oh, and one other questions, do ALL cameras have the ability to have motion detection?  How about night vision (or is that the one camera that has all of the red lights around the shutter?), and do all cameras have two way audio?  

 


All the cameras do motion detection and night vision.

 

The original WireFree model doesn't do audio at all.  Some models (particularly the Pro2) are very quiet when used with Android phones (which I think is cured if you use a handset).  Of course the audio won't be great if the cameras are in an enclosure.

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

 

Does anybody have better suggestions on how to set up my homes other than the way I am doing it? 


One aspect is that occasionally the cameras can go off line.  One way to work around that is to use a timer of some kind to disconnect/reconnect power every now and then (once a day?)  Another is to make sure someone local has access to the system and can restart it for you if needed.

 

You'd need power and internet with pretty much any system.  The bad thing here is that you need to do quite a bit to overcome the temperature limitations.  And after that, there are features you hoped for (glass breakage detection, etc) that Arlo doesn't offer yet.  

 

The key advantage of most Arlo cameras (and the security light) is the fact that they are wireless and battery powered - which is a feature that isn't realized for you by the time you are done with your heated/powered enclosure.  There are some powered outdoor IP cameras out there that are spec'd to run at -22F - though that might not be good enough for your location either.   There are outdoor analog cameras that are spec'd down to -40F (though they would require more equipment inside to digitize and analyze the video.  So there might be some alternatives out there that won't require you to do all this extra work.

View solution in original post

Suprmark1
Aspirant
Aspirant

Hello,

 

First off, thank you to all of you that responded to my first set  of questions.  I absolutely appreciate it!

 

I have a thought, and want some feedback.  Pertaining to the issues below, particularly the issue of temperatures.  Is the main problem of the cameras not functioning well with cold temperatures due to the quick decline of the power of the battery?  Because if that is so, would it make sense to purchase an outdoor AC power adapter & power cord (why they need a specific power adapter for outdoor and indoor is beyond me).

But I digress, if the camera is powered all of the time by AC that means that the battery will not die, and the camera "should" function fine with all of the bells and whistles.  This would provide me with motion detection OUTSIDE (prior to an intruder gaining entry into a building), it would also provide me with two way audio to speak with the intruder.

Another few questions:

1.  Someone said that the volume quality of the PRO 2 camera with an Android phone is dismal.  Is there any way to improve that other than getting an Apple or an LT?

2.  And a brand new question and one that is kind of time sensitive (as I am coming up to this issue right now).  When first setting up a system, you have to plug your base station into a router to program the cameras.   Does that router need to be THE ROUTER that THAT SPECIFIC BASE STATION will be running on?  In other words, can I go over to my girlfriends house and use her router to program the cameras during the very initial set up, and then use a completely different router at another house without any problems?  

I have been looking on the knowledge base for answers to that question but I have not even come close to it, however I have learned quite a bit.  

3.  And the last question.  I will have FIVE different base units, with three cameras each.  One will have five cameras.  I am not sure if the floodlights that I will be purchasing require a base station or not, but a lot going on.  First question would be how many gigs would a normal place use up.  When I say normal---most of these places are fairly remote, they have no trespassing signs up, and I do live in Alaska where most meth heads understand that they will be shot if they intrude onto peoples property looking to rob them.  So, thinking maybe 4 or 5 motion detections per day on average.  Would an average internet plan cover that?  Of course I will be monitoring the usage the first few weeks every day, and adjusting the range of view...but to be safe I thought I would ask first.  

Second question, related to having five different base stations, do you think it would be a wise idea to get the plan that covers up to 20 cameras?  I will have a total of 17 cameras and 8 smart flood lights.  Would the plan take a load off of my shoulders on what I should do, or what constitutes a 911 call, or would I get notified quicker?  I know I still have to make the 911 call, but it gives me the option as a push of the button, not that the State Troopers would rush out there anyways.   Do you think it would be a wise investment with that many cameras and that many systems?  I mean when I open up the app, there is a LOT going on.  

 

Okay, I certainly appreciate all of your answers and comments, they really help.  Thanks to all that commented before, and thanks in advance to all that will comment on these questions.

 

Suprmark1

 

Model: VMB4500 | Arlo Pro/Pro2 Base Station, VMC4030P | Arlo Pro 2 Wire-Free Camera, ALS1101 | Arlo Security Light
StephenB
Guru Guru
Guru

@Suprmark1 wrote:

 

I have a thought, and want some feedback.  Pertaining to the issues below, particularly the issue of temperatures.  Is the main problem of the cameras not functioning well with cold temperatures due to the quick decline of the power of the battery?  Because if that is so, would it make sense to purchase an outdoor AC power adapter & power cord (why they need a specific power adapter for outdoor and indoor is beyond me).

 


Certainly the battery won't charge if the temperature is too low - there is circuitry in the charging circuit to prevent that.  That's a safety requirement.

 

AC power would eliminate any issues related to the drop off in battery efficiency when the weather gets cold. Some users have found that that at least some camera models won't run at low temps  with the battery installed, even with AC power.  But one person found that they did run ok at -22F with no battery. 

 

There is a long thread on that here: https://community.arlo.com/t5/Arlo-Pro/Operating-Temperature-Farce/td-p/1482204

 

As far as the cable goes, the indoor cable isn't weatherproof.

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

 

1.  Someone said that the volume quality of the PRO 2 camera with an Android phone is dismal.  Is there any way to improve that other than getting an Apple or an LT?

I believe that you will get ok results with a headset. 

 

Note there is the volume from the phone/headset mic -> the camera speaker, and the volume from the camera mic -> phone speaker.  The Android issue relates to the first path (phone mic -> camera speaker).

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

 

2.  And a brand new question and one that is kind of time sensitive (as I am coming up to this issue right now).  When first setting up a system, you have to plug your base station into a router to program the cameras.   Does that router need to be THE ROUTER that THAT SPECIFIC BASE STATION will be running on?  In other words, can I go over to my girlfriends house and use her router to program the cameras during the very initial set up, and then use a completely different router at another house without any problems?  

 

 


The base always needs to be plugged into a router for the cameras to work.  But you can set up the system on one router, and then move the base to another router later.

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

Would an average internet plan cover that?  Of course I will be monitoring the usage the first few weeks every day, and adjusting the range of view...but to be safe I thought I would ask first.  

What internet upload speed to you have?

 

The guidance from Arlo is that each pro/pro2 camera needs 1 mbps of internet upload.  Scaling that up, you'd need a 17 mbps upload total.  But you can get away with less, since all your cameras won't be triggering simultaneously.  

 


@Suprmark1 wrote:

Second question, related to having five different base stations, do you think it would be a wise idea to get the plan that covers up to 20 cameras?  I will have a total of 17 cameras and 8 smart flood lights.  Would the plan take a load off of my shoulders on what I should do, or what constitutes a 911 call, or would I get notified quicker?  I know I still have to make the 911 call, but it gives me the option as a push of the button, not that the State Troopers would rush out there anyways.  


The plan would give you longer cloud retention of the captured videos, and give you some more options to control notifications and recordings.  It also lets you put all the cameras and bases on one account.  

 

911 could be an issue here - if you aren't local, getting a 911 call routed to the right PSAP (public safety access point) can be a challenge.  The Arlo service is designed to take care of that - calling the correct PSAP no matter where you happen to be.  But that service does depend on an address database that tells Arlo what PSAP they need to call.  In your case, the address might not be in their database (since you are rural).  They should be able to resolve that, but you might need support's help.

 

Overall, I'd suggest a subscription.

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