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I’m really hoping that someone can help me with this! This problem has stumped at least 4 IT experts. No one knows what the problem is or how to fix it.
The issue is that when I have installed Netgear products to use on my WiFi network, they all end up damaging/corrupting my LAN (wired ethernet connection).. The Netgear devices are causing IP conflicts. I’ve already removed the Netgear Arlo “Home” device from my network, but I still can’t restore my LAN. This happened with the ProSafe router, Netgear Orbi, and now the Arlo Pro 2.
I am able to get the Netgear devices up and running, but then the destruction starts. The wired Ethernet network is completely down, with Windows 10 stating the “Local area connection doesn’t have a valid IP configuration”. The WiFi is working fine, and Comcast states that they can “see” that I have internet on their end.
Comcast had me change the range of the IPs used to 192.xxx from 10.1.xxx as another Arlo user with a similar IP problem suggested, but that didn’t solve the problem. I’ve released/renewed IP, reset internet adapters, unplugged/re-plugged Ethernet cables at both ends, turned off/on computers, reset router, etc, etc, but nothing fixes it.
The set up I have is a Netgear 24 Port Gigabit Switch JGS524, plugged into a Comcast Router, and Windows 10 Pro computers. The Arlo was plugged directly into the back of the Comcast router. It’s not plugged in or powered on anymore, but the network still won’t return to normal. Comcast suggested that perhaps the Netgear switch was assigning DHCP and was getting confused with the router and Arlo, but it’s an unmanaged switch and doesn’t assign IP addresses. Does the Netgear Switch not play well with Netgear devices?
Any ideas? I’m desperate!
Thanks!!!
Solved! Go to Solution.
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Success!
I don't really understand the fix, but this is what happened.
As a troubleshoot, I directly connected one of the affected computers to the back of the Comcast wifi router to see if I could get an internet connection. After trying that, my plan was to connect the computer directly to the switch.
As soon as I connected the computer directly to the router, the ethernet worked automatically, and also instantly restored the ethernet network to every connected device. 🙂
If I dare try to install the Arlo again, I'll make sure to connect it to the switch instead, and hopefully avoid this problem.
Many Thanks!
RR
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RockinRobyn wrote:
The set up I have is a Netgear 24 Port Gigabit Switch JGS524, plugged into a Comcast Router, and Windows 10 Pro computers. The Arlo was plugged directly into the back of the Comcast router. It’s not plugged in or powered on anymore, but the network still won’t return to normal.
This smells more like a network issue that has not much, if anything to do with the Arlo stuff.
Is there nothing else on the network? No modem feeding the router?
IP conflicts can come aboiut because there several devices are fighting to control the allocation of IP addresses. This can entail putting the modem, or the router, into a different mode.
Why plug the Arlo into the router rather than the switch?
How about restarting the network in the recommended order? Does that help?
Just another user
Arlo hardware: Q Plus, Pro 2 (X2), Pro 3 (X3), Pro 3 Floodlight, Security Light (X2), Ultra (X2), Doorbell, Chime
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I can’t try the completely reboot the entire network until the end of the day, but I’ll try that.
The problem is most definitely caused by the Netgear devices because I only have this problem immediately after trying to install a Netgear device. I’m not even sure how I fixed it after the disastrous Orbi fiasco. It took several days and required lots of rebooting computers and unplugging Ethernet cords. I should have learned my lesson.
The LAN error I’m getting now is “unidentified network, no internet access”, and “local area connection doesn’t have a valid ip configuration”. It used to say something like “private” or “work network “ instead of unidentified.
Also, it turns out that all of the computers on the wired network are able to see each other with the exception of a Surface tablet. It can only see one other computer on the network. Odd because it is using the WiFi which didn’t seem to be affected by this problem.
The wired Ethernet computers that can see each other are unable to get internet access unless they have a WiFi adapter.
Thanks again!
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RockinRobyn wrote:
The LAN error I’m getting now is “unidentified network, no internet access”, and “local area connection doesn’t have a valid ip configuration”. It used to say something like “private” or “work network “ instead of unidentified.
I have seen that one many times on the Netgear modem/router forums.
It is Windows. Nothing to do with Arlo, it just eats whatever Ethernet you feed it.
My guess is a Windows/router clash. Try the Windows network troubleshooter.
Also, it turns out that all of the computers on the wired network are able to see each other with the exception of a Surface tablet. It can only see one other computer on the network. Odd because it is using the WiFi which didn’t seem to be affected by this problem.
The wired Ethernet computers that can see each other are unable to get internet access unless they have a WiFi adapter.
Windows again.
The problem is most definitely caused by the Netgear devices because I only have this problem immediately after trying to install a Netgear device.
Not really. You were installing a device. That your network is up the spout means that you could have had problems regardless of who made the hardware. It is just coincidence that Netgear gets the blame.
This bit also points the finger firmly at your network.
Comcast had me change the range of the IPs used to 192.xxx from 10.1.xxx as another Arlo user with a similar IP problem suggested, but that didn’t solve the problem. I’ve released/renewed IP, reset internet adapters, unplugged/re-plugged Ethernet cables at both ends, turned off/on computers, reset router, etc, etc, but nothing fixes it.
The advice to change the IP address can be an indicator of an IP conflict on the network. Not something that Arlo can get involved in. Windows again.
For better help, from more people, take your issue to the forum for whoever made your router, or even on to the Windows forum.
Just another user
Arlo hardware: Q Plus, Pro 2 (X2), Pro 3 (X3), Pro 3 Floodlight, Security Light (X2), Ultra (X2), Doorbell, Chime
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Thanks again for your fast reply!
I'm reluctant to blame it on the router though. After the Orbi disaster, I had lost my patience with trying to fix the network, so I called Comcast and had them install their own Wifi router and stored away the ASUS router that I had originally. So, this is the second router with a similar result.
RR
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Success!
I don't really understand the fix, but this is what happened.
As a troubleshoot, I directly connected one of the affected computers to the back of the Comcast wifi router to see if I could get an internet connection. After trying that, my plan was to connect the computer directly to the switch.
As soon as I connected the computer directly to the router, the ethernet worked automatically, and also instantly restored the ethernet network to every connected device. 🙂
If I dare try to install the Arlo again, I'll make sure to connect it to the switch instead, and hopefully avoid this problem.
Many Thanks!
RR
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This confirms that it was a LAN issue. Nothing to do with the Arlo stuff..
This is why it is important to start things on your network in the right order: modem>router>LAN (PCs etc).
It happens because each device acquires an IP address on the LAN that depends on what it is connecting to. So if you leave your PC running and change everything upstream the PC gets confused and tries to use an address that won't work.
This explains the error messages you saw. They were Windows telling you that something nasty had happened on the network.
By all means keep thinking that the Arlo device caused your problems. Unfortunately, doing that may mean that the next time something else goes wrong you waste hours trying to troubleshoot it.
Just another user
Arlo hardware: Q Plus, Pro 2 (X2), Pro 3 (X3), Pro 3 Floodlight, Security Light (X2), Ultra (X2), Doorbell, Chime
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